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How many steps does it take to build the world’s thinnest tourbillon? In the past many years, Piaget, Bulgari (and later Richard Mille) have been competing in all aspects of "the world's thinnest watch", including manual, automatic, chronograph, minute repeater, etc. It is simply a "total war". In 2024, Piaget paid tribute to the 150th anniversary of the birth of the brand and won a new victory in the field of tourbillon, winning the title of "the world's thinnest tourbillon". This is the 150th anniversary edition of the new Altiplano Ultra-Thin Series Ultimate Concept Tourbillon watch, which is 2 mm thick.

Step one: cancel the independent movement

The Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon is developed from the Piaget Ultra-Thin watch born in 2018, which is equipped with a tourbillon.

Whether it is Piaget's Altiplano Ultra-Thin Series Ultimate Concept, Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, or Richard Mille's RM UP-01, these top-notch ultra-thin watches that rank among the top three in the world have all eliminated the need for independent movement. Movement, directly use the bottom cover of the watch as a plywood, and install all movement components directly on the bottom cover of the watch.

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This design first came from the ultra-thin tourbillon launched by Audemars Piguet in 1986. From the photos, we can see that the gear shaft and holes have been completed on the bottom cover of Piaget's ultra-thin watch.

Furthermore, when arranging the gears, all gears and components are "spread out" to minimize the overlap of the gears. The gear components are arranged on one layer to reduce the thickness. Because the Piaget Master Ultra-Thin Watch and the Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon are too thin (both watches are 2 mm), ordinary materials cannot be used to make the watch cases, because like gold cases, they are too soft and not strong enough. Bye, the watch is deformed. Therefore, the Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon uses a cobalt alloy case (PVD blue-plated, 41.5 mm). The hardness of cobalt alloy is twice that of steel, making the 2mm Piaget extremely thin and strong enough.

Step 2: The tourbillon all runs on "ball bearings"

The data given by Piaget for the Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon is that the watch has 13 jewel bearings and 6 sets of ball bearings. The key to becoming the world’s thinnest tourbillon lies in these 6 sets of ball bearings.

A general tourbillon has a cage and a balance shaft. It is very difficult to make it super thin because the structure does not allow it. Piaget's ultra-thin tourbillon directly fixes the balance wheel and tourbillon on the ball bearings. They run and rotate on the "ceramic beads" of the bearings, and the thickness is reduced instantly. The reason is that the ball bearing eliminates the gear shaft and the jewel axle eyes above and below the gear shaft. The balance wheel does not need a shock absorber, and the thickness is immediately reduced. In the photo, I included the ball bearing part. Please circle it and you will know at a glance. Piaget also opened a window on the bottom cover of the watch, allowing you to see the back structure of the tourbillon.

Of course, the focus of the Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon is thinness, so it uses a ball bearing tourbillon structure. The tourbillons of other famous watch brands do not have the ultra-thin demand of Piaget, so they still have a normal tourbillon structure and focus on aesthetics.

With the tourbillon problem solved, the next thicker part of the watch is the barrel. The solution is the same. For the Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon, the barrel is fixed on a ball bearing and the gear shaft of the barrel is eliminated, thereby saving valuable thickness. Because the tourbillon consumes a lot of power and the watch is only 2 mm thin, Piaget thickened the spring and hollowed out the barrel to try to reduce some weight (reduce energy consumption). It has really been It’s hard work. In the end, the watch maintained power for 40 hours.

In addition to the tourbillon and barrel, in fact, among the transmission gears of the Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon, the second and third wheels also run on ball bearings (the fourth wheel, escapement wheel, and the gems used for the escapement fork) bearings). So we see that this watch does not use many artificial ruby ​​bearings, all of which are for thinning.

Step 3: Details and polishing cannot be compromised either.

After the "core problems" such as the tourbillon and the barrel are solved, the last thing that affects the thickness of the watch is the crown. For ordinary watches, when we wind the watch in the first gear and pull it out to the second gear to adjust the time, there will be a clutch gear involved. This clutch gear is "upright" and affects the thickness. Earl replaced the "standing" clutch gear with a "lying" spiral gear, thus reducing the thickness. At the same time, if you use a regular round crown with a thickness of 2 mm, the crown will be too small and you will not be able to hold it. So Piaget used a square crown, which is usually pushed back to blend with the case.

For the Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon, even the "independent movement" has been cancelled, and there is nothing left to polish. But we can see that the exposed splint of the watch is sandblasted over a large area; the outer ring of the hour and minute dial, the outer ring of the tourbillon, and the exposed gears are all brushed. There is very little space for polishing and decoration, but you have to decorate wherever you can. This is the attitude of top watches.

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Why is Piaget the first choice for “top ultra-thin watch”?

Because, Piaget is still a "watch". It not only maintains ultra-thinness, but also has complex functions. It never deviates from the overall structure and aesthetics of traditional watches.

An ultra-thin watch is like a supercar. For supercars, the speed can be increased to 3 seconds or even 2 seconds. Every 0.1 second increase requires huge efforts and a huge increase in price. Similarly, for ultra-thin watches, when it reaches the 2 mm or even 1 mm level, every 0.05 mm increase is very, very difficult. Therefore, the Piaget Ultra-Thin Tourbillon, as the world's thinnest tourbillon, is indeed an exaggeration, but This is true for luxury watches and sports cars.